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couple questions


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  • !llumenati

Questions for my knowledgeable group -

First off, does anyone know of a soft aluminum retainer besides Milikin?

Secondly, regardless of extrusion or building from scratch - either what would be considered the minimum depth cabinet for both single face and double face without shadows from the lamps, or the pole inside the cabinet? Or -- would some knowledgeable fabricator care to shed light, by means of a diagram, the proper way to figure the minimum depth to avoid shodows?

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Questions for my knowledgeable group -

First off, does anyone know of a soft aluminum retainer besides Milikin?

Secondly, regardless of extrusion or building from scratch - either what would be considered the minimum depth cabinet for both single face and double face without shadows from the lamps, or the pole inside the cabinet? Or -- would some knowledgeable fabricator care to shed light, by means of a diagram, the proper way to figure the minimum depth to avoid shodows?

Check w/ N. Glantz & Son ... I know they use to carry a line of annealed "F" retainer.

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  • !llumenati

Questions for my knowledgeable group -

First off, does anyone know of a soft aluminum retainer besides Milikin?

Secondly, regardless of extrusion or building from scratch - either what would be considered the minimum depth cabinet for both single face and double face without shadows from the lamps, or the pole inside the cabinet? Or -- would some knowledgeable fabricator care to shed light, by means of a diagram, the proper way to figure the minimum depth to avoid shodows?

Check w/ N. Glantz & Son ... I know they use to carry a line of annealed "F" retainer.

That's the one from Milikin.

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The rule with cabinet depth vs lamp hotspots (or shadows).

The depth from face to lamp should be equal or greater than the space between lamps. Anything more and you'll get shadows.

For example... a 6" deep cabinet will show lamp lines of the lamps are even 8" apart. I know most would run them even 10" or 12" apart but they do so knowing that if there isn't vinyl to diffuse this effect, that you'll see lines behind a simple white face.

D/F is a little trickier since the light bounces around and fills the airspace differently, but I would generally say that the distance between faces should be no smaller than the distance between lamps, ideally greater.

The type of face material makes a difference, of course.

Same thing with LEDs. If you have a 4.3" deep channel letter, your LEDs shoudl be no more than 4.3" apart in order to avoid spotting. Many people use modules like GE or Permlight or Axiom at 6" spacing, but if the cans are shallower than 6" you'll get spotting more often than not. Longer shaped modules help, but putting modules closer together is the best way.

Edited by YYZ
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McGill marketing group sells soft aluminums and extrusions. I'm sure you'll find what you need.

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  • !llumenati

McGill marketing group sells soft aluminums and extrusions. I'm sure you'll find what you need.

Oops - that is the company I was calling Millikin. Haven't a clue why. Seen their stuff but was wondering if there was any other alternative.

Thanks for clarifying the name....getting old!

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I don't care how far apart the lamps are from each other, if they are closer than 6" to the face you will see them. 8" should be the minimum.

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Brian Phillips | expresssignandneon@sbcglobal.net | P. 812-882-3278

Express Sign & Neon | 119 S. 15th Street - Vincennes - IN 47591

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california wants to make the spacing of lamps 18" on center instead of the typical 12"

They most likely can using Tri_Phosphor Lamps.

Also, thoguht this was a good idea of what ABC put in their company sign cabinet as a reflector on the pole

IMG_0053.jpg

You have enemies? Good. That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life. - Winston Churchill

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