Joseph Licari

Typically, you don't as long as you're complying with Prevailing Wage laws (local regs) and or Davis Bacon (Federal regs). Neither requires you to be part of a bona fied union organization. Otherwise known as the PLA.... Some labor agreements can be very strict. Depending on your scope of work, Carpenters, Iron workers, or even other trades will "claim" the work falls in their trade as defined in the PLA. Nonetheless, since you're not union, I advise a cautious approach to your bid. Having a good union partner is critical in situations like this. If you really want to bid the work, contact one of the above halls business representatives. Otherwise, you may not be ready for this added complexity of actually performing the work. One last thing.... low bid will likely still win. It's not supposed to work that way, but typically best price and "capable" will secure a contract. However, the obligation to perform what you've bargained for stands. If you don't, your feet will be held to the fire. Nine times out of ten, I would not recommend bidding on this unless you've already got a trade union partner. There's too much to factor without a relationship already in place. If its a small potatoes job, you should be able to supply your product to a union company who actually gets the award.

Endeavor Neon - Andrew Hibbs https://instagram.com/endeavourneon/

Using only the router admin, can you see the sign? If not, you've yet to successfully set up/configure the board. You'll need to hook a laptop directly up to the sign and configure it. These cheaper offshore signs are not the easiest to configure and come with little support in the form of a poorly structured manual. Nonetheless, open up the setup manual and follow it step by step making sure you've got all of the correct software and comm drivers on your laptop. My personal opinion is these signs are alright..... but they are so over driven, they will likely fail in 2 to 3 years. Again, they are not a "breeze" to set up.

Wired? - Dare I ask if the Ethernet cable is plugged into the sign and a router? WiFi Wireless? - Is the wifi access properly set up? i.e. Credentials. passwords? All in all it sounds like a network configuration issue and likely a conflict. You'll also need to confirm the correct Communication settings are chosen. NOTE: since the IP address is manually configured you need to make sure there is no conflict with the router or other device on the network. If you have access to the sites router, you should be able to confirm IF and what address has been assigned to the sign. I would recommend you set up a reservation for the sign's mac address on the router. That way it will stay the same.

Try Scott.... Keene or Keen I believe.... out of their corporate in Chapel Hill, NC. He may possibly be able to point you in the right direction. Just let him know you're interested in doing regional sign work direct or through a national vendor they already have. I guess Han Del Bars let go.

Is it Han Del Bars? Couldn't resist. Happy Wednesday!

Probably LQ10D368 or LQ10D367..... but double check by removing it.

3003 is the most workable alloy. Most sign stuff is brake formed up to 90 degrees. Sometimes obtuse, but mostly just 90 bends. I have seen both 5052, being a harder alloy with magnesium, and 6061 with magnesium and silly cone, crack at a 90 bend before.... A contributing factor may be attributed to not properly adjusting the brake for material thickness. Nonetheless, anything signage or general purpose for that matter, all alloys mentioned will work. Difference being in the paint prep and finish. 7075 sheets don't have a real use in the sign industry unless there's some weird hardness or tensile strength required. Although if you're planning on replacing structural steel with aluminum, this is a the best choice. If you're lucky enough to get a cool 3D metal formed project of some sort, 3003 is hands down the top choice. Maybe get to play for a week laying up molds and making a resin and concrete hammer forms. Spend a few of those days banging on some 3003 with a selection of hammers. At least to me, that would be a nice break from cabinets and lettersets. Geesh, that would be a nice break from drawing signs. Sorry to hijack your thread, Troy.

Glad you got a fix. Pretty reliable equipment.... just out of business. If I may suggest, clone your hard drive at least once per year as a back up. Worst case scenario, you swap out the faulty drive. The stepper motors and other components should last you a while(and are not hard to find), but the hard drive will invariably tank.

I hammered out three thousandths once.... :) Maybe it was 7075.... two thousandths difference in tolerance from 6061 or 5052. Welcome to the Syndicate, Troy.

Agree. Best method I know of for this type of application. Relatively long life and it's temp range covers Ohio's weather mood swings. (-40 to +300°F )

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It's possible. Going to require some testing, adjustments, and tweaks I'm sure. If I may suggest, use a low speed high torque dc motor ($20-60 each Reduction/or worm gear style. ) that runs about 1-3 RPM. Any faster will likely be too much. Don't cheap out on the power supply for the motors. There's a ton of made in china models to choose from. Not familiar with a US manufacturer off the top of my head. Last thought.... balance your "wheel" and reinforce the "hub"

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I'm excited, a nerd, and can't freaking wait! I've even got my 7 year old hooked. Properly, at that. IV, V, II, III, VI. Then I showed him Episode I being sure to point out all of it's shortcomings. Not that ii or iii we're much better but this order made the most sense.