Joseph Licari
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Posts posted by Joseph Licari
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THE ART OF BENDING NEON
October 7, 2015
Gabrielle Westfield
"The concept of neon is already an incredible feat, considering what you are witnessing; which is electricity ionizing a combination of gases (including Neon) in a closed tube to expel a phosphorescent light. It’s also an unfathomable concept that we thought of blowing glass tubes to harness all the composites inside and give the effect of bendable light. There is such an array of physical changes needed to fabricate that effect of pliable base to mold into blazing words and shapes...." Read More(FULL ARTICLE)Endeavor Neon - Andrew Hibbs
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Using only the router admin, can you see the sign? If not, you've yet to successfully set up/configure the board. You'll need to hook a laptop directly up to the sign and configure it.
These cheaper offshore signs are not the easiest to configure and come with little support in the form of a poorly structured manual. Nonetheless, open up the setup manual and follow it step by step making sure you've got all of the correct software and comm drivers on your laptop.
My personal opinion is these signs are alright..... but they are so over driven, they will likely fail in 2 to 3 years. Again, they are not a "breeze" to set up.
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Wired? - Dare I ask if the Ethernet cable is plugged into the sign and a router?
WiFi Wireless? - Is the wifi access properly set up? i.e. Credentials. passwords?
All in all it sounds like a network configuration issue and likely a conflict.
You'll also need to confirm the correct Communication settings are chosen.
NOTE: since the IP address is manually configured you need to make sure there is no conflict with the router or other device on the network. If you have access to the sites router, you should be able to confirm IF and what address has been assigned to the sign. I would recommend you set up a reservation for the sign's mac address on the router. That way it will stay the same.
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Try Scott.... Keene or Keen I believe.... out of their corporate in Chapel Hill, NC. He may possibly be able to point you in the right direction. Just let him know you're interested in doing regional sign work direct or through a national vendor they already have.
I guess Han Del Bars let go.
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Is it Han Del Bars?
Couldn't resist. Happy Wednesday!
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Probably LQ10D368 or LQ10D367..... but double check by removing it.
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3003 is the most workable alloy.
Most sign stuff is brake formed up to 90 degrees. Sometimes obtuse, but mostly just 90 bends.
I have seen both 5052, being a harder alloy with magnesium, and 6061 with magnesium and silly cone, crack at a 90 bend before.... A contributing factor may be attributed to not properly adjusting the brake for material thickness. Nonetheless, anything signage or general purpose for that matter, all alloys mentioned will work. Difference being in the paint prep and finish.
7075 sheets don't have a real use in the sign industry unless there's some weird hardness or tensile strength required. Although if you're planning on replacing structural steel with aluminum, this is a the best choice.
If you're lucky enough to get a cool 3D metal formed project of some sort, 3003 is hands down the top choice. Maybe get to play for a week laying up molds and making a resin and concrete hammer forms. Spend a few of those days banging on some 3003 with a selection of hammers. At least to me, that would be a nice break from cabinets and lettersets. Geesh, that would be a nice break from drawing signs.
Sorry to hijack your thread, Troy.
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Glad you got a fix. Pretty reliable equipment.... just out of business.
If I may suggest, clone your hard drive at least once per year as a back up. Worst case scenario, you swap out the faulty drive. The stepper motors and other components should last you a while(and are not hard to find), but the hard drive will invariably tank.
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Not to nit pic, but .060 alum ? I've never used .060 alum before.
I hammered out three thousandths once.... :) Maybe it was 7075.... two thousandths difference in tolerance from 6061 or 5052.
Welcome to the Syndicate, Troy.
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LORD 406/19 Sand both surfaces, clean and apply a small bead around the area to me adhered. clamp and wait 20 - 30 minutes. I think 24 hours for full cure.
Agree. Best method I know of for this type of application. Relatively long life and it's temp range covers Ohio's weather mood swings. (-40 to +300°F )
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We've heard from more than a few of Syndicate Members about Sign.Guide . Thanks so much for your support and a big thanks to those who helped out with the initial Beta testing.
Today is the very last day to get an Introductory Offer for a 5 YEAR PREMIER LISTING for only $50. Afterwards, listings will be $50 per year.
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-Show what services and equipment you offer.
-Showcase your premier projects in your listing's gallery.
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-Quickly add a YouTube or Vimeo video to your listing.
We still offer and will continue to offer a 14 day trial.Thanks!
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It's possible. Going to require some testing, adjustments, and tweaks I'm sure.
If I may suggest, use a low speed high torque dc motor ($20-60 each Reduction/or worm gear style. ) that runs about 1-3 RPM.
Any faster will likely be too much. Don't cheap out on the power supply for the motors.
There's a ton of made in china models to choose from. Not familiar with a US manufacturer off the top of my head.
Last thought.... balance your "wheel" and reinforce the "hub"
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Many expressed they wish they hadn't missed our initial free listing offer. Here's your second chance.
We're giving away (3) three Free Premium 5 Year Sign Guide Listings.
Click on the image or here to enter.
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I'm excited, a nerd, and can't freaking wait! I've even got my 7 year old hooked. Properly, at that. IV, V, II, III, VI. Then I showed him Episode I being sure to point out all of it's shortcomings. Not that ii or iii we're much better but this order made the most sense.
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Are you all just silently wishing us luck???
Ha! That's kind of funny. I think most that would comment are in Vegas playing...er um, "working" at the ISA sign show.
You'll probably get some more replies on Monday.
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I've worked at a few shops that had written guidelines for this very purpose. As they say, things can look good on paper...
It sounds like you hired outside of the industry with little to no sign experience. Maybe on purpose or possibly because there was no applicants with experience. Either way, you've got your work cut out for you.Everyone is different, but it's safe to assume it takes most people at least a year to learn enough of the basics to do a good job.
A written reference is a good start, but a group tour of jobs you've completed and other sign types throughout your immediate area would probably the quickest way to install the proper ideas in your team's heads.
This may seem expensive to lose a whole day touring signs and you may even get some finger pointing from some passerby, but consider it an investment.
It shouldn't be haphazardly planned, but structured by sign type and potential options/pitfalls of specific scope.
The above should greatly help you on board your Sales and Design staff.
I don't know what to say about your Estimator.... In my opinion, this role should always be filled by an experienced sign pro who already knows materials, fabrication, installation, and the all important understanding of how other trades work. I've always believed your estimator and production artist/engineer should be the go to people for your sales team when it comes to feasibility.
You need to have someone that is the "Master" that others can be mentored by.
Just my two cents. I'm sure there are plenty of companies who got past your challenges using different methods. It's always expensive to train staff, but it's more expensive not to.
HTH.
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ISA PRE SHOW SPECIALYou can get a 5 Year Premium Listing for your company by creating a “New Listing” at http://sign.guideAt just $10 per year, it’s an excellent deal!-Visitors are shown companies close to them.-Show what services and equipment you offer.-Showcase your premier projects in your listing’s gallery. There’s no limit to how many photos you can add!-Quickly add a YouTube or Vimeo video to your listing.
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We're up and running. To those from the Syndicate who participated in the Free Listing opportunity, THANKS! Your BayGraphic log in credentials are the same and encrypted for use on Sign.Guide
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Panasonic's "Tough" line is an awesome product line. Especially for mobile applications. Only thing I would make sure of is a solid state hard drive and internal LTE data card. If you're in and out with it alot, eventually you will forget you have an USB LTE plugged in and break it off.
I recommend either the Huawei ME906V or the Sierra AirPrime..... Both are LTE 4G capable and both make good use of 3G spectrum when you're not in a 4G service area.The main reason I suggest a solid state drive is because a standard or hybrid drive is still subject to shock.
Again, the Toughbooks have been around a while and are a proven workhorse. They're not usually set up as a graphic powerhouse, but they're great for almost any other purpose. Although, I would stick with Windows 7 as the operating system.
Hope this helps.
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By the way, glaziers slap those frames in, level them, and throw maybe 2 anchors on the bottom each lite (pane) and 2 on the top. This is usually a tapcon. They also use a polyurethane sealant/caulk. Vulkem is popular.... BUT they run up to a 1/2" bead. Besides possibly some foam and plastic shims used to level, that caulk bead and those few tapcons is what is actually holding that curtain wall in place.
Also, consider glass service..... if one of those lites is vandalized, or otherwise broken, how can a glass company replace it with your letter set spanning it? Unless you're in a high rise, most aluminum curtain wall systems' glass is set from the outside.
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Paul brings up good points all around about that curtain wall and the comparison to the Tim H. letterset. That looks like Kawneer extrusion....very thin wall.
Granted, a LED letterset with a narrow raceway isn't all that much weight.
Still, get it engineered. CYA.
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I've updated my signature video.... just in case you would like to see a cameo by "The Sign Syndicate", give it a view.
Someone had recently asked me what it is I do. Well, in addition to wayfinding, drawing prints, schematics, and section views of of all types of signage, I also do these types of renderings.
and
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Hmmmm. Channel Letters?
Let's assume that the electrical is already there. Say an outdoor weatherproof outlet enclosure of some sort. Let's also assume that there's no local or national code which precludes the use of such an outlet and the sign is simply "plugged in". Afterall, LED illumination doesn't really have a hazardous secondary to work with and from what I'm reading here would likely have ye' old "Electrocution Hazard: Qualified Service Only" or "Non-Serviceable Parts" labeling. Similar to your tv and other household appliances.
So, what about attachment method specific to the location?Did shear and axial force, fastener tensile strength, windloads, and the section of whatever you're attaching this letterset to become a non issue never to be considered?
Although, a carpenter or GC may be "qualified" to handle installation.
Certainly a "disruptive" idea, yet I don't quite see it effecting a large area of the market.
What type of end user who is looking to save the $800 to $2000 typical letterset installation costs by doing it themselves is an "ideal" client anyway?
Sure everyone tries to appease their potential clients, but few chase this kind of work.
Maybe I've got it all wrong. Just my two cents.
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40 Free Listings Left.
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Need: UNION Installer/Rigger/Welder, NYC/Nassau County area
in General Message Board
Posted
Typically, you don't as long as you're complying with Prevailing Wage laws (local regs) and or Davis Bacon (Federal regs). Neither requires you to be part of a bona fied union organization.
Otherwise known as the PLA.... Some labor agreements can be very strict. Depending on your scope of work, Carpenters, Iron workers, or even other trades will "claim" the work falls in their trade as defined in the PLA.
Nonetheless, since you're not union, I advise a cautious approach to your bid. Having a good union partner is critical in situations like this. If you really want to bid the work, contact one of the above halls business representatives. Otherwise, you may not be ready for this added complexity of actually performing the work.
One last thing.... low bid will likely still win. It's not supposed to work that way, but typically best price and "capable" will secure a contract. However, the obligation to perform what you've bargained for stands. If you don't, your feet will be held to the fire.
Nine times out of ten, I would not recommend bidding on this unless you've already got a trade union partner. There's too much to factor without a relationship already in place.
If its a small potatoes job, you should be able to supply your product to a union company who actually gets the award.