megavolt512
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Posts posted by megavolt512
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Your truck is 25 years old. Why invest in The big batteries, parts needed, mechanics etc. It will cost you alot more then buying a new generator. Buy a Honda #1000 gas generator, $ 1,000 and an extra gas can. They run for 8 hrs on 1 gal and are so quiet you don't know they are on. Then you could take it with you when need to.
That's actually the other option I was thinking about... right down to that model of generator!
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Can't you upgrade the alternator. Keep the truck running, and run the hydraulic pump off the truck motor?
Yes could definitely do that. Was just looking for a way to keep from running the engine all the time when in use. The batteries seem to be a bit more reliable too and you're not waiting for an engine to run out of gas. Batteries run down but you get a a warning as the voltage begins to drop.
The new trucks used by Time Warner here seem to be battery-powered for the lift hydraulics. Nice and quiet!
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I am buying an older Versalift truck - it's standard edition AT&T from 1990. 27ft. Ford F350 dually.
Anyway, the Versalift was designed to run off a generator, which is on the truck. I'd like to convert this to a battery bank so the generator doesn't have to constantly run.
My plan is to add perhaps 4 deep cycle batteries and some sort of charge controller/isolator so the trucks alternator charges these, (but it doesn't use them for starting). I may have to upgrade the alternator, but that doesn't seem like a big deal.
Anyone done something like this, or have any caveats? I just don't want to worry about keeping a generator running all the time when in use. Also quieter of course.
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completely buried with work here!! Busiest in years!
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there are many instances where it's better to pay more for an LED system for a cabinet rather than a fluorescent system, example high rise building or an area that makes it very difficult or expensive to service.
Voltarc's 60K "max" florescents are definitely a strong competitor to LED's in a situation like that:
F96T8 HO - 7467 lumens, 101 lumes/watt, 60k hours, Lumen maint: 80% @ 60K - $23/lamp
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Expect to see much more of this as LED-modules and strips become mainstream. Add to this the obnoxious flashing and chasing modes and you're going to see all sorts of folks "electrifying" their non-illuminated signage... or building them altogether.
These do indeed look like the DIY border kits that are popping up everywhere. I drove through Houston a few weeks ago and they literally pepper every cheapo strip mall. Pretty fugly imo.
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The tubes get hot enough to melt awnings blown up in a storm & start fires.
Say what????? Neon tubes produce very little heat at all. Less than LED strips actually. Talking about the limitation of neon and LED's is one thing - but don't make stuff up.
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Definitely when it comes to power consumption, neon lights take up more than 30% power than the LEDs which consume only far less power.
Incorrect in most cases. Where is your source of information besides an LED mfg brochure?
Like LEDs, neon can be driven at a variety of power levels. It is easily dimmed with inexpensive, off-the-shelf products down to brightness levels of the competing LED product. At that point the lumens delivered vs. power consumption is very comparable. Often tilting in the favor of neon/cold-cathode. A variety of vendors even make lower-output power supplies that more closely match LED output per-foot of modules or tubing. Like LED's, the lumen-maintenance and lifespan go up dramatically at lower driving levels.
Red LED's do beat neon for power consumption vs. lumens delivered. No debate there. What you do give up (as Erik mentioned) is the near 100-percent lumen maintenance of clear red neon. Clear red neon is the only light source available to the general public with a lumen-maintenance profile approaching 100 percent. So neon is less efficient in clear-red and but it does bring some other characteristics to the table that are not matched. Red neon can be stuffed into a channel letter in Houston where the interior temp soars to 150 each day and not sustain lumen-loss or shortened life. Replacing/changing a light source is a very energy-intensive endeavor in itself. And costly. This needs to be factored into the ROI equation in addition to initial watt-draw vs. lumens.
When you get beyond red, the question becomes much more nuanced. My general consensus after looking at years of the continual LED/Neon tests here (for colors other than red) is that it's pretty much a wash with regards to lumen-maintenance and power consumption. For outline-lighting, neon and cold-cathode seem to retain a strong edge - especially when cost is considered. But in other applications too.
I think one of the big revelations about Erik's testing here is that EVERYTHING degrades in output over time. LED's and neon - even red LED's. And eventually all of them need to be replaced when they are no longer delivering competitive outputs. The one exception here is clear red neon. It's less efficient than red LED. But it costs much less and it lasts much longer. Almost certainly has lower recycling costs and lower embodied energy. Where that fits into ROI depends heavily on the specific application.
I sell and install LED products as well as neon. Honestly I've had a very hard time selling LED border tubing. I've only managed to do it when either an uninformed customer demanded it, or it was an application where LED's were the better choice for physical reasons (splash lighting around kick-boards of restaurant booths). White LED modules? Use them all the time. Not because of energy consumption though. It's sometimes easier, and quicker than engineering a neon installation. But the quality of light is almost never as good as neon-cold-cathode. So my operation mode has really evolved to "use neon and cold cathode when the application supports it, use LED's for the rest". Has worked great for me.
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The spring tube supports are really hard to find! Damn those are the best!
Brian, which tube supports are you talking about? EGL Grabits? The old metal Transco? Those were the only spring loaded I am familiar with.
I've honestly gone to to the FMS glass with silicone-dipped tips for everything these days. Even interior. They are inexpensive, listed, last forever, and the neon doesn't slip/rotate.
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One reason I pay my subs quickly is because I want to maintain good relationships with them. If I have a project I need to throw a lot of help at, I know I can get the good people quickly - and with priority over those people needing them who take months to pay.
If I'm paying an independent contractor (neon wholesaler, extra tubebenders, hole diggers, painters, vacuum pan face makers, etc.), I'll usually pay them in full when THEIR job is done. Not mine. Not "when I get paid." The upside is that when I need help, I have people who will work for me at any hour of the day if needed. I can't imagine structuring my extended workforce any other way. Even other companies - like crane service, engineering, etc.. I almost always pay before 30 days is up.
I honestly don't understand the gains made by anyone taking 90+ days to pay. You might get away with it for a while, but everyone is going to eventually pad your invoice to make up for the interest they are carrying. You won't get the best people, or the best price, or even the most profitable jobs you really want.
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After nearly 20 years in the biz my tolerance for this behavior is pretty low. It seemed to go on steroids after the 2008 economic crash. Companies realized there were desperate folks out there who would tolerate long billing cycles and they quickly adopted this as the norm. But the seasons changed and some seem still stuck in 2010.
The norm to getting things done is building positive relationships with your customers and suppliers. I tolerate 60 days from a National if their billing system really requires it, and in all other areas they are stellar. If they cannot I do accept credit cards. Rarely after 90 days taken to pay will I do future work for them. I'm not someone else's bank.
Things move fast in this economy. I realize I am expected to get things done quickly and accurately - and I do deliver. I expect the same from the other people involved in the transaction.
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I wonder if it was the primary (which may be 220v in Philipines) or the neon secondary that killed him? Electrocution deaths from neon transformers are nearly unheard of due to the low currents involved.
Yes, definitely a reason for disconnects, lockouts, etc.
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Eurocom in Irving has such a product I believe.
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Curious what are folks using these for? They are the same housings used in housing-type neon transformers.
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The Ars Technica article isn't fully accurate. Incandescent were never "banned". Minimum efficiency was phased in around 2007.
The old argon-filled bulbs didn't quite meet the efficiency standard... but halogen incandescents do. Several mfgs are now making the gold old A19 in a halogen model. Same light quality, 20-30% more efficient. Around 2 bucks each currently, but the price has been falling.
This issue really upset a bunch of folks. Maybe it's just me but I didn't think it was a big deal. I think the standard is still there - just no money allocated to enforce it. It looks like all the bulb-manufacturers are making (or have already made) the conversion anyway.
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I can't recommend CCTV systems highly enough! Have had one now 8+ years and couldn't live without it. Other than a graffiti incident, we've caught every single thief, vandal, burglar since I put it up. Maybe 4 incidents total.
It's also very prudent to protect your loss and liability from people (and employees) on your premises who may claim they slipped and fell, etc. Invest in a good system. I started out cheap and quickly realized you need quality. My system now is HD-quality, captures license plates, and can identify a car clearly speeding 60mph down the road out front... at night.
This stuff has really come down in price recently. Every business needs one IMO.
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Excellent job Erik!
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Starting to see more ETL lablels on electric signs... they are likely worth investigating too.
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Sign companies are overpaid!
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Olympic wont be able to supply replacement parts and even then it wont match like the clear red neon does.
I think the Sloan flex will need replacement in 6-8 years. Red LEDs are very durable... But flexible plastic tubes are not when out in the heat and UV. At least not the products I've seen currently used.
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***Does not include the price of glue, clips, and caps and wiring
Total $8,985.00
ROI: 48 years
Or labor, or the markup on the materials the customer will pay. This is certainly a 20K+ job when it's all over.
Man, people sure do dumb things.
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It's too early for me to make a judgement about Obamacare. It may be making things worse. But the status quo before it wasn't looking so good either. My insurance has been going up ~20 percent/yr for the past 10-15 years. 2012 was an exception where it was only 5 percent. Now it's back to the same. You can usually get it knocked back down if you agree to be re-underwrited.
I know this is a great country to be in if you need a specialist for a specific condition (pancreatic cancer, etc.). But for the bulk of health care 95% of us use (checkups, broken arms, MRI's, etc.) it's a very expensive place to get sick. Home of the $5000 sprained ankle.
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1880's? That was the time of gas lanterns! (And CO2-filled Moore Tubes)
Neon sales have been red hot in my neck of the woods since February of last year. Recently added to the bender payroll for the first time since 2008. Lots of exposed neon pylon signs and architectural borders. Even selling custom OPEN signs again to folks who appreciate something nicer than the Costco blow-mold variety.
Also starting to get folks calling again looking for apprenticeships and learning opportunities. It's not 1999, but there definitely does seem to be a renewed interest.
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The ils2000 is (was?) a great listed neon sign product for certain applications. Mostly in the old days of heavy magnetic window sign transformers that needed to be separated from the sign to be shipped. As mentioned, definitely NOT for outdoor wet use at all.
converting Versalift from generator to battery?
in General Message Board
Posted · Edited by megavolt512
Erik, on closer inspection it looks like I have the same thing. I took the cage off and indeed the Onan generator drives the hydraulic pump. Basically I want to get rid of this Onan pump as it's really old and I want something more dependable. Maybe a small diesel or such that can run the pump or a setup like you did sounds ideal.