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To update everyone of our new stock and colors we now have a darker blue which matches pretty well with Avery's Dark Blue Translucent 8500 Vinyl series 007.

We also have a real Duranotic Bronze to match most coated pre-fab Aluminum coils.

Finally we have an Orange.

 

These can be ordered from our store http://www.thesignsyndicate.com/forums/index.php?/store/category/10-trim-cap-plastic-adhesives/

Or call in 858.880.1400

DK Blue Duranotic Plasco.jpg

 

Kgirl plasco 0716.jpg

You have enemies? Good. That means you've stood up for something, sometime in your life. - Winston Churchill

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  • Similar Content

    • By Erik Sine
      JEWELITE TRIM CAP NOW IN STOCK!!!

       
       
      I am very proud to announce that we NOW stock Jewelite (Vidon) Trim Cap
       
      We just brought in a good sizable stock load of both 1" & 3/4" Trim Caps.  One of the awesome things about Jewelite is, it's now of the few components in our trade that is actually made right here in the Good ol' U.S. of A
       
      Our Current Sign Syndicate Trim Cap Pricing as follows:
      3/4" x 150'  6+ Rolls $46.75 each    1-5 Rolls  $51.25 each
      1" x  150'   6+ Rolls $56.75 each     1-5 Rolls $61.25 each
       
      **Discounted shipping on orders of 6 or more rolls.
       
      You can call in/email your order 858.880.1400  |  orders@thesignsyndicate.com  or try our online shopping cart 
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
    • By Erik Sine
      **OUTDATED POST & INFORMATION**
      Our Current New & Improved LED Technology LED MODULE is the BrightON LED Series 
      More Light per Watt, Longer Life, Lesser Modules & Cost... located Here
       
       
       
       
      If you can find an LED that competes with our Reckless NC LED I should would like to know.
      Is it Constant Current and NOT constant voltage? Reputable high grade diode such as our top tier Samsung? Is it consistent? Is it made in CHINA? Most importantly does it last? How do you know it lasts? I'm not talking about catastrophic failure and I'm talking about gradual light degradation in a short about of time. The Reckless is only 3% light loss in 15,000 Hours. Are they IP68 for wet location?
      So far everyone who has tried has bought more as it relates to the applications they use it for.
      The Reckless is the brightest in it's class under 1watt modules or 3 watts per foot


      Constant Current Red HLC2


      Also, introducing our new LED Power Supplies. Union Power Supplies, IP68 for wet location, they come in 60 watt, and dual channel 120 watt units

      So far we haven't seen any LED manufacturer who claims to be the best or brightest in the same class compare in a true white rendering, in brightness, or in longevity. American companies using Chinese LED's just don't seem to last or stay consistent over time.
       
      THE RECKLESS
      • IP68 UL/CE
      • 5 Year 50,000 Hour Component Warranty
      • Constant Current
      • 3% Lumen Maintenance in 15,000 Hours
      • Made in Korea
      • High Grade Tier Samsung Diodes
      Most importantly.....NOT made in CHINA!!!!
      You can visit out online Shopping Cart and order here or call in 858-880-1400 / orders@thesignsyndicate.com
    • By Erik Sine
      SHOPPING CART LINK
      DAILY DELIVERY FOR SAN DIEGO




      3/4" ($47.75) & 1" ($55.75) + Shipping
      Colors are below

      * Black
      * White
      * Gold
      * Silver (Brushed Silver Appearance)
      * Bronze
      * Duranotic Bronze
      * Orange
      * Red ( 3M Poppy Red 3630-143 | Pantone 179 C )
      * Blue ( 3M Intense Blue 3630-127 | Pantone 300 C )
      * Dark Blue (Avery Dark Blue 8500-007)
      * Yellow ( 3M Sunflower 3630-25 | Pantone 124 C )
      * Green ( Oracal Emerald Green 8800-087 | Pantone 348 C )
       
       
      Some notes I'd like to add about this product.

      Some may have used this product in the past and some may have never had a chance. This product disappeared from suppliers right after 9/11 from what I understand there were Customs issues that made it too costly to bring in.

      IF you remember this product from long ago, you will be glad it's back (just like the reaction I've gotten to all who have purchased from me).

      IF you have never used it, your fabricators will love you for using it, it's MUCH MUCH easier to work with and notch, you won't get those splits you sometimes get on corners.
      My other understanding is that this product was mainly distributed on the west coast, so not many on the east coast have ever tried it. My advice is try it, believe me YOU will LOVE it!

      Before 9/11 I used PLASCO and the Silvatrim Trimcaps. I still have signs up 16+ years and this trim cap is still up, it's very durable.
       
       
       
      PLASCO Trim for Polycarbonate Channel Letter Faces
      Plasco is an excellent channel letter trim cap to be used to fabricated polycarbonate / Lexan channel letter faces. We also stock Channel Bond, the 1 part system which makes it easy for bonding Plasco Trim to Polycarbonate. You can also find Channel Bond here
       
      PLASCO VS JEWELITE
      In another thread I was asking why anyone east of Colorado "WHY" they mainly buy 1" Jewlite and not 3/4" Jewelite for 24" Channel Letters and smaller.
       
      The reason seems to be is that when you use 1" Jewelite with a standard 3/16" channel letter face the 1" Jewelite gives you more clearance because the arrow extrusion protrudes more than 1/4" from the face giving you less mechanical fastening room. Make sense but 1" is very tough to notch, bend and get in small letter centers too because of that arrow extrusion.
       
      I was always use to Plasco Trim Cap in my years of the sign industry, NOT Jewelite because on the West Coast Plasco was stocked more than Jewelite before 9/11. So after this "clearance" point was brought up I did some quick measuring because I had a east coast client buy Plasco 1" to match up with his regular use of 1" Jewelite. Then shortly after receiving his order with 3/4" samples he soon after starting ordering 3/4". I asked him why the change in smaller trim. He said the change was because the 3/4" Plasco trim gave him the same fastening clearance that he got buying 1" Jewelite. 
       
      I've attached some images to show you that you can use 3/4" Plasco Trim Cap that will give you the same clearance as 1" Jewelite IF clearance is important to you.
       
      Plasco vs. Jewelite - Here we display the channel letter baseline along with the clearance you get using 3/4" & 1" Plasco / Jewelite Trim Caps

       
      1" Jewelite clearance

       
      1" Plasco - More mechanical clearance than 1" Jewelite

       
      3/4" Plasco - Just about the same mechanical clearance as using 1" Jewelite

       
      3/4" Jewelite - Less mechanical clearance than 3/4" Plasco

       
      1" Jewelite - Arrow extrusion protrusion more than 1/4" past the channel letter face.

       
      http://www.thesignsyndicate.com/miscstuff/adverts/examples/Plasco Trim Cap.JPG
       




       
      You can contact me by email for orders / inquiries at
      orders@thesignsyndicate.com or (858) 880-1400 or purchase from out online Shopping Cart
    • By Erik Sine
      The BrightON-II LED  .vs  The Principal Qwik Mod 2 LED
       
      So....we've been getting lot's questions on how our New High-End BrightON II LED compares to The "New" High Efficient Principal Qwik Mod 2 LED
       
       
      Well, we did a quick "side by side" benchmark comparison to find out.
       
      They have some basic similarities.  
       
      • .8 watt modules
      • Both 170˙/175+ Optics
      • Both have Aluminum PCB
       
      We compared both LED modules and placed them in 24" x 4.5" x 5" channels using a standard Plexiglas MC white #7328 white acrylic face to simulate a wide channel letter stroke .  Modules spaced 6" OC from one another and 3" from the channel walls.
       
       
      Now to find out what the differences are...
       
       

       
       
      Once we lit the channel compartments one big difference was the white appearance of each light source.
       
      The Principal Qwik Mod produces more of a yellow white illumination on the sign face, whereas the BrightON II is more of a True White.  The pictures here may not do justice as it's hard to capture Real Time and Real Life along with how your display may be calibrated.
       
      Both BrightON II & Principals's Qwik Mod are .8w modules....The BrightON II is 24V LED module, the Qwik Mod is 12V LED module.  
       
      24V means half the current flowing through the system of a 12V system, which translates to lesser heat, lesser resistance than a 12V system.  A 24V system is more reliable and a longer life system over time for the very reasons I stated.
       
      A 24V system allows you to use a larger single watt channel PSU (96w).  The BrightON LED system uses the France Lighting Solutions "True Power" LED Drivers to complete the system, "True Power" means users are able to load the PSU to 100%, where as other LED PSU's are recommended not to go beyond 85% of the rating.  A full load 96W France PSU can load 120 BrightON II LED modules.  France Lighting Solutions LED Drivers are the only Drivers to date that are 100% loadable.
       
      With a 12V system a single channel 60W LED PSU is typically loaded at 85% or 51W of a 60W unit, or 63 Qwik Mods.  You can load more modules on a single unit but you would have to be looking at using a 120W PSU that is a dual 60W channel unit.
       
      Luminance
      Right away the biggest take away from this LED comparison in the image below is the Sign Face Surface light output results in Foot Candles using a ExTech Light Meter measuring the High's and Low's in the 7" x 4" rectangle area of the acrylic face.  
       
      The BrightON II has a Foot Candle Average of 209 versus Principal's Qwik Mod coming in lower at 171 Foot Candles.
       

       
       
      Constant Current
      A HUGE difference which will play big in lighting and in life is how the current is driving across each module.  The BrightON II is of course Constant Current, NOT Constant Voltage.  The Qwik Mod is Constant Voltage.
       
      The quickest, simplest explanation and differences is this.  On a Constant Current system, each module has a current regulator chip which means each module is current regulated, and protected not to overdrive and create more heat and run hotter.  The first module on a Constant Current string is equally as bright as the last module on a string....the result is consistent lighting.   If you've ever paid attention to the light testing we have been doing on The Sign Syndicate since 2009', you would know that the best and lowest light degradation or Lumen Maintenance results always came from CC LED systems, Constant Voltage or "Eco" Modules not so much.
       
      In a CV System you better hope your LED PSU is not driving above the intended voltage of 12 volts.  A slight increase in a fraction of a volt... say...12.2V can kill a LED system fast depending on the makeup of the Modules.  When we did our Light Testing "The Great White Hope" we had a incident where a LED PSU operating at 12.25 was used on a Permlight "El Plato Module which was CV and in under 30 days the original output dropped 30%.  We had to kick out the PSU and start over with another string of EL Plato's using a manual adjustable LED PSU to assure not to go above 12V.
       
      On a typical CV System on long runs the first module will be brighter than the last module on the same string, inconsistent lighting, with a not well regulated LED PSU CV LED will tend to run hotter and brighter in some areas causing a shorter life.  The system is solely dependent on the module resistors for protection.
       
      In Short....
      Constant Voltage = Lesser LED life over time
      Constant Current = Longer LED life over time
       
       
       

       
       
       
       
      Lighting Angles
       
      Below.....you can take what you want from this part...
       
      We used equal underexposed shots from both LED light sources from a Canon SLR Camera instead of Real Time to show our audience where the optics is transferring light
       
      We used a lighting angle chart that we created, made up of 1" grids just to help in displaying where the optics and throwing light.  Both Module have wide angle optics, I would just say that the Brighton II throws more light towards the edge of the chart and a little higher up the middle.  
       
       

       
       
       
      What It All Means
      In closing, the biggest differences that can be taken away from this benchmark comparison and what separates the BrightON II are a couple of big factors.
       
      • The BrightON 24 volt system which has half the amperage, heat, & resistance than the 12 volt Principal Qwik Mod LED system.  You're also able to load more LED modules on a 24V system than a 12 volt system
       
      • If you're looking for a more "Purer" white light source, better bin, then the BrightON LED Module family is for you.
       
      • More light for less power on the sign surface....better chip efficiency... that was just displayed and shown in Foot Candles....BrightON II  209 FC over Principal Qwik Mod 2  171 FC
       
      • Probably the single most important factor?  The BrightON LED Family is Constant Current rather than a lower costing system that uses unregulated current in Constant Voltage.  What that means for user is....Longer Consistent Life Over Time
       
       
      The New BrightON LED
      The previous High-End BrightON LED version has had a lot of success since the launch.  What is new?  Only some miner changes were made to make a already superior LED module even better.  Same high efficient chip, improved 6500 Kelvin, different optics.  
       
      Not that we needed it but, the BrightON is, and has always been underdriven but....we changed from a Fiberglas PCB Board to Aluminum.  Aluminum provides better thermal cooling, but again, it wasn't needed....it's just nice to brag about it and say we have Aluminum.
       
      The New BrightON LED Family will in stock by early May 2021.
       
       
      **UPDATE**
      The BrightON LEDs can now be purchased from our our online store HERE, or you can order over the phone (858) 880-1400 |  orders@thesignsyndicate.com
    • By Erik Sine
      Apparently Jewelite is out of their Gold Trim Cap until July / August, so we've been getting a lot of calls from large Sign Shops for orders of Plasco's 1" Gold to complete a rather large Sign Program.
       
      So I dug out a Jewelite Sample of Gold, compared to Plasco's Gold Channel Letter Trim Cap.  
       

       

       
      In the comparison, Plasco has just a more nicer gold color, Jewelite looks more of a washed out metal coloring with a little gold in it, IMO.  
       
      If you're looking to see the Gold difference between the two to substitute, I think using Plasco 1" Gold Trim Cap will make those signs look so much better.
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    • Back in the late 90's, before i ended up buying the family business, my parents talked to several different business brokers.   it took nearly almost two years to find one that was trustworthy.  One just wanted to sell us a book about the history of the business, another couldn't get any interested buyers, some just want to put your business up on a website, etc.   I eventually bought the family business (still not sure if that was a good idea or not) and we worked out our own terms.   Plus there was no brokers commission.   One of my realtor customers is also a business broker and we're supposed to get together.  With COVID on the wane, I hope to meet him farily soon.  Maybe one of your customers is a broker as well as a realtor.   I suggest that you reach out to SCORE and get some free help.   SCORE is part of the SBA and it's all free and the people are eager to help you.   Eventually I am going to have to sell and have been doing monthly zoom meetings to go over that subject, plus lots of other "stuff".    I'm now 63 (and wish I had contacted SCORE thirty years ago) and figure I can afford to retire in another 35-40 years.  :)     Go to the SBA website and search for what you want and they'll match you with someone.   I'm in the local chamber of commerce and another business owner told me that it took him 3-4 years to make one of businesses "bankable" because most buyers don't have the cash to buy you outight.   They will have to go to a bank for a loan so all your books, inventory, etc. will have to be set up so a banker can understand your business and approve the loan.   I'm supposed to catch up with that guy and get more details but we never seem to be at the same meetings.   Again, SCORE will have people who can give you better information than "some sign-guy on the internet".     What I can say that I've been upgrading equipment, having things serviced professionally, keep the trucks on regular maintenence schedules, etc.    When I bought the business, most everything was old and run down but I was used to it and knew what needed to be replaced right away and what could stay.   No one will want a business where a lot of equipment is close to the end of it's useful life.   "New and Shiny" sells better than "old and dusty" even if the old stuff is better than the new.   Best of luck!
    • What's the best way to sell my 51 year old commercal sign business?   millersignsinc.com     Tanks,     Rob
    • I know Neon Wizard does
    • Hey Brian, I tried to get to the art room to ask our Flexi techs. But, it was a busy morning.   I know in Corel Draw if you have the text converted to curves. You can look in object properties at path and it will show the path length. Which is the distance around the letter plus inserts.
    • Thanks Rocco. I was able to find suppliers that would ship to us. But, we would be on our own for set up and training on the new machines.   We are going to send our fabricator to a couple of shops that have purchased from our prospective supplier and check out the equipment before we buy.   Thank you for taking the time to reply!
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