NWWsigns

http://www.aluminumspacers.com/ Best pricing by far. Smooth raw aluminum, the look great.

I think there is serious need for educating customers here, they just don't see the difference and you cant beat the price so why not? We had a local retailer contact us to install a sign they bought in China and we passed on it, not wanting to have anything to do with the many potential problems - it had a plastic raceway for starters. Drove by the other day and saw it up, with wiring daisy chained across the raceway sections through holes on top. I have no idea how they got landlord or permit approval for it. From 30' back though it looks fine for now and they are happy with it so its hard to convince them that they should have paid twice as much.

Matthews for sure

Warning, common sense ahead.... http://theworldlink.com/news/local/n-or-th-bend-welcomes-overhaul-of-neon-sign/article_7d6774da-a3fa-5c80-90c7-1587a31c53de.html

We are just completing a nice project for Mars Hill Church here is Seattle and they brought a crew out for a day to film us while we worked - it turned into 15 whole seconds of promo video but it was fun. My favorite are the sound effects they used, like the torch lighting up for our mig welder. Thats the neon that Mark from Northern Lights did for us. I tried to just insert the video but dont see how so you will have to scroll down our FB page a little - https://www.facebook.com/nwcustomsigns

Yep, Duxbury is the only solution I know that works. Its a simple translation program and you cut and paste from there to Illustrator or Flexi as needed and use the braille font.

We are a small shop so have never needed to outsource installs out of our area but we have a project now where I need survey, permit, and install help in 3 or 4 locations. I looked at the service map but am assuming that there are more shop represented here than have taken the time to set that up. Anyone available to help with survey and permit asap in Portland, Albuquerque, or Spokane? Whats the best way to find reliable installers? thanks

I have used the AA RGB modules a couple of time - work great with the controllers they sell.

Here in Washington there are only a few cities that really look for a listing and there is a grey area with title 24 and remote mounted power supplies which can get you around the requirement. All the property management companies want UL though and I dont see that changing.

Gee, I think I would like to dive into a freezing lake today - not my idea of a good time but enjoyed the video, pretty cool stuff. I did not see any Pike though, very disappointing.

starting to look into going automated finally, any advice on whats the best machine? We are a small shop so heavy output is not a priority but we have more than we can do by hand.

Thats how I found my fabricator - I called all the local shops knowing they probably could not do it but would know who could. I would have never have thought to call an industrial boiler fabricator but thats who everyone local uses for big stuff.

I had some 2x4 1/4" wall rolled the hard way down at Seattle Boiler works - http://www.seattleboiler.com/ Not quite Istanbul but a long way from you.

Not sure if this has already been posted but I have never seen it, really cool to see how it was done "back in the day". Brass and porcelain hardware even. I dont see any mention of OSHA there though. http://www.creativereview.co.uk/cr-blog/2011/june/coca-cola-neon-sign-piccadilly-circus

I have a client looking for this finish for a cabinet (push though letters). I was thinking it was Cor-ten but not so sure, how is this finish done?

The musics makes me think there is going to be a nasty accident any second. That looks just like the package I got last week which I was very happy with.

I do this all the time but use a picture of whatever wood I want and create a height map from it - you can create some very realistic wood that way. What software are you using?

acrylic paints stick well but I spray Matthews - hit it with the Matthews Tie Bond which dries very quick and topcoat - good stuff

I am working on someone elses specs for some map diplays - lockable cabinets basically. I cant seem to find this extrusion anywhere typical - any help?

I am the kind of guy who over engineers everything and try to do everything right the first time - I like to sleep at night and not worry about jobs I have completed. I can not see getting UL listed unless I have to as I understand it to be expensive. Did a but more reading on the Washington State LNI and UL stuff, here are partial pieces... WAC 296-46B-600 Special equipment — Electric signs and outline lighting. 001 Electrical signs - general. (1) All electrical signs within the scope of UL Standard 48, the electrical sign standard, must be listed. All electrical signs outside the scope of UL Standard 48 will be inspected for compliance with the NEC. From UL 48 1.5 These requirements do not cover signs specifically intended for connection to a circuit of limited power supplied by a Class 2 transformer with 30 volts or less output. These requirements cover signs that incorporate a Class 2 transformer as an integral part of the sign. My take is that the power supply is not an integral part of the sign and obviously less than 30 volts

The majority of my work is non electrical but have created a method for LED halo lighting that fits in with my style. I have asked inspectors for years about UL labels and have never been asked for it, until now. My understanding is that the systems itself is UL listed and it is simply like installing any light fixture. I have licensed electricians complete the circuit to make it all legal. Any experience with this?

Thanks for the message, I was looking at the wrong test but see them now - Very helpful - thanks

yep, white is what I am looking for and I did jump in and pay up. There are no AA LEDs on there but the info was worth the money. I have some samples but know nothing about the company. They are about $3 less per module so the savings would be huge.

Thanks, I am a bit unconventional since the only lit signs I make are halo lit letters made from HDU so they are only 2" deep. I enclose them with acrylic so they are fairly tight. The V series from Sloan creates a great effect but I am more concerned about durability.

I typically have used Sloan but there is a huge cost difference and if they are just as good I may give it a try. Anyone have any experience with AA LEDs? If not what do you use? Thanks Brian